Keyhole Cichlid

Cleithracara maronii

Keyhole Cichlid (Cleithracara maronii)

Min Tank Size

120L

Adult Size

11 cm

Lifespan

8 years

Care LevelBeginner
TemperamentPeaceful
DietOmnivore
BioloadMedium
ActivityCalm

About

Native to the Orinoco river basin and coastal drainages of Trinidad and northeastern South America, the Keyhole Cichlid is one of the genuinely peaceful members of its family. The body is a warm sandy tan, sometimes with a faint yellowish flush, and the namesake marking is a dark blotch on the flank that in good specimens really does look like a keyhole. A bold black stripe cuts through the eye, giving the face an alert, almost curious expression.

These fish come from slow-moving, heavily vegetated blackwater and clearwater environments, so they appreciate soft to moderately hard water, slightly acidic to neutral pH, and lots of cover in the tank. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter all help them feel secure. They're not demanding about exact parameters as long as conditions are stable, but softer, more acidic water tends to bring out their best color and encourages spawning.

Feeding is straightforward. They'll accept most sinking pellets, frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp, and small live foods without much coaxing. They're slow deliberate feeders, so make sure faster tankmates aren't outcompeting them at mealtimes. They rarely beg or dash to the surface, preferring to pick at food that drifts down to their level.

Behaviorally, Keyholes are famously docile for cichlids, and many keepers describe them as personable fish that recognize their owner and come to the front of the tank over time. They do take a while to settle in, spending the first few weeks hiding behind plants or under wood, but patience pays off. A bonded pair is a joy to watch, especially when they spawn and show off subtle parental behaviors.

If you want to see how other hobbyists are keeping Keyhole Cichlids, browse the real tank builds on Shimmerscape for inspiration on layouts and tankmate combos that actually work.

Water Parameters

Temperature

°C
22–28
15202530

pH

5.5–7.5
56789

GH

dGH
2–15
05101520

KH

dKH
1–8
05101520

Swimming Level

Top
Mid
Active
Bottom
Active

Flow Preference

None
Gentle
Moderate
Strong

Keeping multiple Keyhole Cichlid together

With caveats

Keyhole Cichlid is mildly territorial. Small groups can work in spacious tanks with broken sightlines, but expect occasional squabbles.

Compatibility

Plant SafeYes
Snail SafeSometimes
Shrimp SafeSometimes
Fin NipperNo
Nip VulnerableSometimes

Keyhole Cichlids work well with most peaceful community fish in the mid-to-upper water column. Good matches include tetras like rummies or cardinals, rasboras, peaceful corydoras, and small plecos. Avoid any confirmed fin nippers like tiger barbs, as Keyholes are slow and can end up with ragged fins before you notice. They can coexist with larger dwarf shrimp colonies in a planted tank, but expect some attrition, especially when fry are present. Cherry shrimp kept in dense plants will usually sustain a population. Avoid pairing with boisterous or aggressive cichlids, even smaller ones, as Keyholes tend to become reclusive when intimidated.

Commonly kept with

Species this one is most often paired with
Cardinal Tetra

Known to coexist well in community setups.

View full care guide →

Commonly tried but avoid

Often paired, but shouldn't be

Care Notes

The most common beginner mistake is mistaking shyness for illness. Newly added Keyholes often disappear for weeks and eat reluctantly, and many people panic unnecessarily. Give them time and cover. The second issue is feeding competition: they lose out to faster, more assertive fish and can slowly waste away in a busy community tank. Target feeding with a pipette or feeding stick helps. They're sensitive to large swings in water chemistry more than to specific numbers, so consistent maintenance matters more than chasing perfect parameters.

Behavior & Aggression

Keyholes are about as mild-mannered as cichlids get. Outside of breeding season, aggression toward other species is essentially zero. During spawning they'll defend a small patch of substrate with body posturing and occasional bluff charges, but almost never make contact with tankmates. The main exception is very small invertebrates, which they may pick at regardless of breeding status. Two males in a smaller tank can develop low-level tension, but it rarely escalates to injury. Providing sight breaks with plants or wood almost always resolves it.

Things to Know

  • Very shy when first introduced, may hide for weeks before settling in.
  • Will eat small shrimp and snails, especially during spawning.
  • Mild territorial behavior during breeding, rarely escalates to real aggression.
  • Can be extremely shy, needs lots of hiding places.
  • Easily outcompeted for food by boisterous tankmates.
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